Monday, March 31, 2008

Tunisian Cooking Lesson 2: Brik

Brik is kinda like a fried bureka, and it is awesome.

You will need:
chopped parsley
cheese, I think a shredded mozzarella will work (not fresh)
canned tuna (some people use shrimp or just leave out this ingredient altogether)
an egg, 1 per brik
oil
a lemon
and brik dough, which looks like this:

I did a little bit of research and it looks like it might be available in the US under the name Warka, malsouka, or feuilles de brick.

You can also buy them from Amazon at:
http://www.amazon.com/Feuilles-Brick-Dough-10-sheets/dp/B0001217R2/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=gourmet-food&qid=1204408409&sr=8-1

Or try to make your own, which is supposedly very hard.
Or you can use spring roll wrappers, which are supposedly close enough. Phyllo dough will not work since it is too brittle.

Anyway, you first want to wilt the parsley in a pan with a bit of olive oil. Take it off of the burner and put in the canned tuna and mozzarella cheese, and a pinch of salt and pepper. I would say there should probably be equal amounts of parsley and cheese, and slightly less tuna.


Then take the brik sheet and fold in the sides so that it forms a square which is around 5"x5". Fold this in half to form a triangle
Unfold it back into a square, and put in 1-2 tablespoons of the parsley mixture. Then crack an egg directly on top of it, and fold it back into a triangle. Immediately place the brik in a pan of hot oil (you're not deep frying) for around half a minute or less on each side. The trick is to cook the white of the egg, but to keep the yolk runny.


Serve immediately with lemon juice squeezed on top. You know you are a true Tunisian when you can eat it with without letting the yolk fall out.

Sunday, March 30, 2008

The North

Roman Marble Quarry

Our trip to the north of Tunisia was pretty fun. There are a lot of Roman ruins in Tunisia. A lot. I think I saw more Roman ruins in the past week than I saw when I was in Italy. There are also lots of amazing mosaics which are in really good condition.
Mausoleum in Haidra

What's great (or maybe bad) about archaeological sites in Tunisia is that you are basically free to wander and climb around on the ruins. Many mosaics, like the one below, look like they belong in a museum or below a glass cover.

Instead, you can walk on top of them, and even steal pieces. (which I of course did not do, or at least not from the ones still in good condition)

Speaking of Romans, the picture below is of Jugurtha's table.

Its a mountain that looks like it had the top of it cut off. There's a pretty breathtaking view from the top, and also more ruins including some cool underground caverns. Yay. This is the site where Jugurtha, a Berber leader, had his stronghold to defend against the invading Romans. Seems kinda familiar, no?


This is Mechoui, which is grilled lamb on the side of the highway. Its served with a bit of salt and lemon. It costs around 11 dinar for a kilo of meat, and is delicious. kinda wish we had this instead of McDonalds back in the US.
Bay In Tabarka


Tefillin from Synagogue in Le Kef, which no longer has a Jewish community, but the state renovated the building and keeps it pretty good condition.


On another note, due to the lack of copyright laws in Tunisia, or maybe the lack of enforcement, I think it is almost impossible to buy a CD or DVD in this country which is not pirated. I found this great place where you can get how ever many movies, tv shows, or songs that can fit on 1 dvd for 1.50. Also, the store has be designed to look like its a gift shop from Jurassic Park and also has leopard skin couches. Unfortunately a lot of the newer movies and shows are dubbed in French, since no one actually uses Arabic in this country (many restaurants do not even have menus available in Arabic). Because of this I've started watching American movies in French, but only really bad ones where it doesn't matter that I miss half the dialog.

Friday, March 21, 2008

Cause we all knew all I really wanted was a food blog

So I decided that the next logical step after making bagels was donuts, and here they are:


My host brother Karim having a go at frying





Completed Pumpkin Maple Donuts



Also I got a Tunisian haircut (well a normal haircut with lots of gel)


Yesterday I went to shul for Purim. Around 30 people showed up, no women, except for one young girl. All the kids under 10 were wearing costumes, but no one older. The service and Megilla reading was pretty average, but afterwards they sang this song about all of the characters in the story which was pretty cool. We finished mincha earlier than expected so the person who I assume was the rabbi gave a short drash about mishloach manot, or at least I think that was what it was about. It was hard to understand the sermon since it was in a mix of Arabic, French and Hebrew. What I found interesting though was that everyone in the congregation felt comfortable interrupting him to ask questions or make comment, which happened pretty frequently.

I was surprised to see that the Jewish community was active enough that it attracted people of all ages. I was expecting a bunch of old men. On the other hand, I could see that there was a fear of antisemitism as we were leaving, and everyone removed their kippot. Or at least I assume that this is why they removed them, I didn't ask anyone.

Yesterday was also the prophets birthday, which meant that most places were closed that and that families get together to have a special meal. Unfortunately all of mine besides my host brother were in Italy, but my maid made me a bowl of one of the traditional puddings since she knew I was disappointed. They also were selling prepared Zgougou, the main traditional pudding for the holiday, at the supermarket so I got some there. Pretty delicious.

Tomorrow we head out on our second excursion, this time to the north.


Here is a fun game I learned called "The Libyan"
One person sits or stands with their eyes closed, and someone else hits them. The person with their eyes closed then has to guess who it was. I'm not sure if the hitter or the hittee is supposed to be the Libyan.

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Yay Tunisisan Arabic

In Tunisian Arabic, all you have to do to switch to future is add the word "besh" to the present tense.

Best tense ever!



Also I made Bagels
Don't be surprised if Tunisians coming to the U.S. think that bagels are called "Khobz New York" or New York Bread.


The recipe I used can be found here:
http://smittenkitchen.com/2007/09/bronx-worthy-bagels/

Monday, March 10, 2008

In Case You're Curious

Here is where I live in Tunis. Its the house across the street to the right of the empty lot. The lot is no longer empty. If you want, you can follow the larger curving street above to the right to see where a bunch of good restaurants are, or, take it to the roundabout and then go south to see my bus route into the city.


View Larger Map


Also, sorry about the low quality videos of the game. I was warned against bringing my camera, and had to use my host brother's phone.
Here's my next blog entry. I realize its a bit long, so if you are not going to read it all, I recommend going to read about the soccer game which was pretty fun.


So somehow the class portion of the program is almost over. I have my Arabic final this thursday, which is pretty disappointing since we are still here for 2 more months.

In other news a couple of exciting things have happened in the past week:

First off, we had a lecture about Tunisians in France, which was pretty interesting, but even better was that the lecturer knew about a few good restaurants for us to try out.
I went with a couple of friends to an amazing fish restaurant in the tractor parts district of Tunis.
We got there at 1:45pm and the place was still packed. The owner's name was Kamel, and every seemed to know him and were constantly calling him to bring them more bread or other stuff. At first it was unclear how to get a seat, since there was no waiting list but at the same time there seemed to be a way of getting acknowledged by the waiters. After standing around for around 20 minutes I heard someone say in Arabic something like "give the tourists a seat," and we were put at a table with a Tunisian who hadn't yet finished eating. The food was pretty good, but unfortunately I forgot I had my camera until after the meal, so here is a picture of the skeleton of Laura's Loup de Mer.

After lunch we walked around the uniform district in order to find bright orange jumpsuits for our Arabic class. I learned the word for jumpsuit in French, which is Combinazon. I will post a picture once they are decorated.





On Sunday I went to the soccer match between Esperance Tunis, and Etoile Sousse, which I guess is a pretty big rivalry, but not as intense as the game in two weeks between the two Tunis based teams. We were not able to get tickets at the box office, and had to buy them at 4x the usual price (and by buy I mean I gave my money to my Tunisian friend and walked away so that they would not see me and charge us extra). Thankfully, even at 4x price, the tickets were only 17dinar.

The majority of the stadium is not reserved seating, and since we had the virage seats, which are the cheapest, we had to arrive 3 hours before the game started. Luckily we found three people who preferred the virage to their slightly nicer seats since its more rowdy, and were able to upgrade for free.

The fans here put American fans to shame. Everyone is wearing their teams uniform, or if not the shirt of another football team which happens to have similar colors. People started singing and chanting around an hour and a half before the game starts. Most of the chants have pretty similar message and are directed at the fans for the other team. Here were some of them (translated)
"Go fuck your mother"
"your mother is a bitch"
"Sousse's mother needs (or has, it was unclear) a penis"

and my favorite
"we are going to beat you up, we're ready to go to Guantanamo"

The fans for each team are seated in separate areas, which are separated by a large metal fence. For this game this was not enough, and there was a section of seats left empty which had around 30 riot police with shields and batons. There were also little clumps of police around the field for the protection of the players and other officials.

Here's a movie of some chanting and big banners before the match began.



The game itself was not so exciting because Esperance, the team I was supposed to be supporting, played pretty horribly. Most of the action was happening in the stands. The Virage section, where I was originally supposed to be sitting, did not sit down for the entire game. They were continuously jumping and chanting, no matter how badly Esperance was doing. I think I saw at least 10 or 15 people carried out on stretchers, or being pulled out by the police. This was partially because they were throwing water bottles and pieces of cardboard, as well as the actual seats at the field.





If you look at this video you will see a line of police wearing helmets and carrying shields of to the left. This is because the virage section decided it would be a good idea to light up flares and throw them at the police.


On an unrelated note, I thought it was funny that instead of selling beer, there are people walking around with kettles selling tea and coffee for 50cents a cup.

Also, I saw a total of 4 girls in the entire stadium.

After the game we had to get away from the stadium as soon as possible, because I was warned that otherwise we might get beaten or kicked by the police.

Sunday, March 2, 2008

Be Jealous

An Oasis in the Desert


Tatooine



The Synagogue in Djerba



View From Our Hotel (yes, it was warm enough to go swimming)


People From the Group
There are more pics on Facebook. Google will only let me post 5.